Boys will be girls

The hot springs resort where we're staying holds dance theater every afternoon and evening. After dinner last night, we headed there to check it out. It was basically a collection of dances. About five different performers danced to Japanese music dressed traditionally and with painted faces.

It was a fascinating style. Each dancer made calculated movements, their feet flexed at sharp angles or head tilted to the side. We noticed after the first dance that the man and woman who were dancing were in fact two men. After Aimee pointed it out, it was obvious that she was a he, but it was a shock that a man could move so gracefully with such demur facial expressions. He had very delicate hands and neck as well. One of the most captivating things about him was his eyes. We would look at various audience members at certain times, and his facial expression would gradually grow more intense and turn into a sort of devious smile.

Later we found out that all the dancers, save one, were under the age of 20.


The leader of the clan came out to sing a song, and noticed us "foreigners" in the audience, saying something else that made the audience laugh but that Hiroshi wouldn't translate. That seems to happen from time to time and is a bit unnearving. After the show, he beckoned us on stage for photos.

Lesson learned: Even among people in costume, we seem to be conspicuous.